Know Uganda: Bwindi

As a guest of Ruhija Gorilla Lodge, a classy offering in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park, I set out with my partner to this jewel of the jungle.

Perched on the eastern side of the park is this serene lodge with a green roofing overlooking the thick forest cover of Bwindi forest. Further beyond the forest is Queen Elizabeth National Park near Lake Edward. At this point you can even catch a glimpse of the hills of D.R Congo.

Nippy air 
Here at Ruhija Lodge, the sun rises at midday. But that still would find you fully clothed. It can be extremely cold to as low as 12 degrees centigrade. What is more, on one ridge it can be shining and just across from it, rain heavily pouring while on another ridge, farmers are busy swinging their hoes into the air and sinking them deep into the fertile soils.

The name Bwindi means darkness. It can be extremely dark even during the day that you may not see far. It is dangerously chilly that you would not risk an asthmatic person for company.

From nowhere, you can be engulfed in a fog of clouds as they caress you with tiny misty drops and for the hairy skinned, you may be covered in a sheath of white flakes.

However, the lodge maintains a constant flow of hot beverages. And every meal is preceded with simmering onion, oregano or chicken soup; be it dinner or lunch. And if you have travelled alone, the lodge offers you at least two hot water bottles.

Breathtaking sunset

Dark and chilly as it may be, once it rains and the clouds are driven away, Bwindi has an excellent view of the sunset. The chalets/cabins at Ruhija Gorilla Lodge are built in such a way that you have a nice view of the sun setting over Buhoma and Lake Edward in Kanungu.

It was the most amazing gift for us. But you have to be careful, otherwise, you may miss it. In typical Kikiga, they call it akarenga bazaana, an orange glow of the sun with its rays lashing out at the dark forest of Bwindi.

This splendid glow allows you to take in the four-breasted hills of Muhabura, Mgahinga, Simbinyo and Virunga mountains, which lie lazily and invitingly beyond the Bwindi Forest. And this can all be taken in while seated at the balcony of the lodge’s restaurant or at the front area of your room. All the rooms overlook the forest cover of Bwindi.
Here, the sun’s setting glow will not last for more than 10 minutes. I call out to my friends whom I had travelled with to capture the glow but by the time they kick the blankets off their tired bodies, after a hectic gorilla trekking expedition, the glow of the sun is gone.

The glow is replaced with a crater-like scenery. Note that there are no crater lakes in view at this point of Ruhija. The clouds just form white lake-like features in between the valleys and for a moment you may mistake them for real lakes. And these come just moments before darkness, again, engulfs the hills and valleys of Bwindi.

Accommodation
Management knows how cold Bwindi can get. The toilet seats have a wooden covering. With that degree of coldness, you may not do yourself any justice to answer nature’s call on a very cold toilet seat.

The beddings are snow white but there is a shed of brown all around you because of the wooden walls. And the towels; yes, the towels are not thin as they are wont in most hotels in Uganda. You can also be sure; Ruhija Gorilla Lodge offers you warm water all the time.

The heating system is directly connected to the cooking area. As long as there is cooking going on, you will have hot water in your showers. And cooking goes on all the time. The rooms are highly recommended by the Tourism Minister, the amiable Prof Ephraim Kamuntu. He has spent a night here and this lodge also hosted the Inter Parliamentary Union delegates from Switzerland.

The park is popular for gorilla tracking and this is something you can indulge in. Other than that, you can do some bird watching. There are over 240 bird species in and around Bwindi, including the blue turaco that has been sighted in Ruhija.

Ruhija can be deathly quiet save for the whirling wind that blows from across the forest. Despite this, the haven that is the lodge is testament that while Bwindi is impenetrable, it is habitable.

Bwindi at a glance

Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, covering 32,092 hectares, is one of the largest areas in East Africa which still has lowland forest extending to well within the montane forest belt.

Located on the eastern edge of the Albertine Rift Valley and the property is a biodiversity hotspot with possibly the greatest number of tree species for its altitude in East Africa. It is also host to a rich fauna including a number of unique butterflies and one of the richest collection of mammals in Africa.

BIRD WATCHING IN UGANDA

Hello Traveler,

When you come to Uganda, Bird watching, like Gorilla tracking shouldn't miss on your things To Do list for your trip in the Pearl of Africa.

Uganda is arguably the most attractive country in Africa to Bird Watchers, not only because of the unusually high number of bird species- about 1008 species recorded in the area within its borders, but also because it offers easy access to several bird-rich habitats that are difficult to reach elsewhere.

Uganda has roughly 10% of the regional checklist of bird species: seven of the 20 Hornbill species, five of the 14 Honeyguides, seven out of the 21 Woodpeckers, 11 out of the 36 Bulbuls and greenbuls, 11 Warblers, ten Fly catchers, eight Sunbirds, eight Weavers, eight Finches, four Tinkerbirds, four Pigeons or doves, three Kingfishers, three Sparrowhawks, three Cuckoos and three Nightjars.

The rainforests of Western Uganda must be seen as the country's most important bird habitat, one of the greatest interest to birdwatchers, particularly if you are already familiar with East African birds. Semilki is the most alluring forest in terms of localised species, closely rivalled by Budungo, Kibale and Bwindi Impenetrable forests. Though ever the relatively tame Entebbe botanical garden has several interesting bird species.

If you want to see a wide range of Ugandan birds, try to visit Lake Mburo, Queen Elizabeth NP, Murchison Falls NP and Kidepo Np.

Here is a beginner's list:  

1. Common Ostrich, world's largest bird at Kidepo National Park in the far Northeast of Uganda

Common Ostrich.

      2. Pelicans, charismatic water-birds on open lakes and mainly at Kazinga Channel, Queen Elizabeth National Park.

Pelicans at Kazinga Channel.

       3. Goliath Heron, a 1.5 meter tall immense heron commonly seen from launch trips in Murchison Falls.

Goliath Heron.

       4. Flamingos, pink-white algae eaters in large concentrations in Katwe and Flamingo crater lakes in Queen Elizabeth and Chambura Wildlife Reserve.

Flamingos at Lake Katwe.

     5. Silverbird, striking silver-backed flycatcher, seen perching openly in Murcchison Falls.

Silverbird.

      6. Piping Hornbill, common only in Semilki NP and also in Budongo NP.

Piping Hornbill.

GORILLA TRACKING

Tracking the mountain gorillas in the Virungas or Bwindi ranks among the absolute highlights of African travel. These are enormous animals, up to three times as bulky as the average man. Despite their fearsome appearance, gorillas are remarkably placeable creatures-tracking them would be a considerably more dangerous pursuit were they possesed of aggressive temperament.
More impressive ever than the gorilla's size and bearing is the unfathomable attitude to people. Often, one of the gentle gaints will break off from the business of chomping on bamboo to study a human visitor, soft brown eyes staring deeply into theirs as if seeking connection.

Gorilla tracking should not present a serious physical challenge to any reasonably fit adult whatever their age, but the hike can be tough going. Another variable is how recently it has rained, which affects conditions under foot.
The effects of altitude should not be underestimated. Tracking in Bwindi takes place at around 1,500m above sea level and in Virungas almost 3,000m-sufficient enough to knock the breath out of anybody who just flew in from low altitude. Once on the trail, don't be afraid to ask a stop for a few minutes whenever you feel tired and drink plenty of water. The good news is that 99% of cases, whatever exhaustion you might feel on the way up will vanish with the adrenaline charge that follows the first sighting of a silverback gorilla.
Put on your sturdiest walking shoes for the trek, and wear thick trousers and long sleeves as protection against vicious nettles. Whether you wear bright or muted colours, gorillas are used to people.

As for photography, my advice, unless you are a professional or serious amateur, is to run off a few quick snapshots, then put the camera away, enjoy the moments, and buy a postcard later.
Above all, do bear in mind that gorillas are still wild animals, despite the gentle giant reputation that has superseded the old King Kong image. An adult is much stronger than a person and will act in accordance with its own social codes when provoked or surprised. The point obviously is to listen to your guide at all times regarding the correct protocol in the presence of gorillas.

**The experience offered at the three reserves is broadly similar, so the biggest factor is determining which you visit will probably be permit availability. The 32 daily permits available for Bwindi game park are often boked up months ahead. On the Virunga volcanoes, up to 40 permits are available daily in Rwanda and 30 in DRC.

BWINDI IMPENETRABLE FOREST NATIONAL PARK

llasThe Bwindi Impenetrable forest, in western Uganda is regarded to be one of the most biologically diverse forests in Africa, largely due to its antiquity and an altitude range between 1,160m and 2,067m above sea level. Bwindi is a true rainforest with an average rainfall of almost 1,500mm.

Tourism to Bwindi focuses on gorilla tracking at two locations, Buhoma and Nkuringo. Slightly more than half the world's mountain gorilla population resides in Bwindi. It harbors at least 120 mammal species, more than any national park except Queen Elizabeth, such as rodents and bats, red-tailed and blue monkeys, olive baboon, as well as black-and-white colobus and elephants. A total of 350 bird species have been recorded at Bwindi, among them African green broad bill, white-tailed blue fly catcher, brown-necked parrot, Frazer's eagle owl.

**where to stay and eat places in Bwindi available on request.