GORILLA TRACKING

Tracking the mountain gorillas in the Virungas or Bwindi ranks among the absolute highlights of African travel. These are enormous animals, up to three times as bulky as the average man. Despite their fearsome appearance, gorillas are remarkably placeable creatures-tracking them would be a considerably more dangerous pursuit were they possesed of aggressive temperament.
More impressive ever than the gorilla's size and bearing is the unfathomable attitude to people. Often, one of the gentle gaints will break off from the business of chomping on bamboo to study a human visitor, soft brown eyes staring deeply into theirs as if seeking connection.

Gorilla tracking should not present a serious physical challenge to any reasonably fit adult whatever their age, but the hike can be tough going. Another variable is how recently it has rained, which affects conditions under foot.
The effects of altitude should not be underestimated. Tracking in Bwindi takes place at around 1,500m above sea level and in Virungas almost 3,000m-sufficient enough to knock the breath out of anybody who just flew in from low altitude. Once on the trail, don't be afraid to ask a stop for a few minutes whenever you feel tired and drink plenty of water. The good news is that 99% of cases, whatever exhaustion you might feel on the way up will vanish with the adrenaline charge that follows the first sighting of a silverback gorilla.
Put on your sturdiest walking shoes for the trek, and wear thick trousers and long sleeves as protection against vicious nettles. Whether you wear bright or muted colours, gorillas are used to people.

As for photography, my advice, unless you are a professional or serious amateur, is to run off a few quick snapshots, then put the camera away, enjoy the moments, and buy a postcard later.
Above all, do bear in mind that gorillas are still wild animals, despite the gentle giant reputation that has superseded the old King Kong image. An adult is much stronger than a person and will act in accordance with its own social codes when provoked or surprised. The point obviously is to listen to your guide at all times regarding the correct protocol in the presence of gorillas.

**The experience offered at the three reserves is broadly similar, so the biggest factor is determining which you visit will probably be permit availability. The 32 daily permits available for Bwindi game park are often boked up months ahead. On the Virunga volcanoes, up to 40 permits are available daily in Rwanda and 30 in DRC.